DO YOU KNOW THE CHURCH THAT MADE EUGENIO MONTALE AND LORD BYRON FALL IN LOVE?
We are in Liguria, specifically in Portovenere, in the province of La Spezia. Here, on a rocky outcrop that juts out into the open sea, stands the wonderful Church of San Pietro. The Church of San Pietro in Portovenere is an authentic architectural and spiritual jewel overlooking the Doria cove in the municipality of Portovenere. It represents not only one of the oldest and most significant places of worship in the Gulf, but also one of the most famous and fascinating tourist attractions in the entire area.
THE GODDESS VENUS ERICINA
The thousand-year history of this church is intertwined with legends, historical events and a deep spirituality that has inspired poets and artists over the centuries. Its origin is rooted in the 5th century, when a small early Christian temple stood on this site, probably built on the remains of an ancient pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Venus Ericina. The name “Portovenere,” in fact, of the municipality of Portovenere, derives precisely from Venus Ericina and the temple dedicated to her that stood on this site. This primitive temple, of which clear traces remain, represents the oldest nucleus of the Church of San Pietro.
THE CHURCH AND ITS THOUSAND-YEAR HISTORY
Over the following centuries, the church underwent various transformations and expansions. In the 10th century, the temple came under the custody of the monks of St. Columba of Bobbio and later to the diocese of Luni, before returning under the authority of the diocese of Brugnato in 1133. It was during this period that the temple was dedicated to St. Peter, an apostle to whom a relic was donated in 1118 by Pope Gelasio II. During the 13th century, the Genoese added a new Gothic church communicating with the early Christian temple, thus forming one larger building. However, the church's history was not without its difficulties: in 1494, a devastating fire struck Portovenere and the church of San Pietro, while over the following centuries it was damaged by military attacks and looting. During the Napoleonic wars, the church was used as a military base and suffered further damage. Only in the early 20th century was serious restoration and conservation work undertaken that restored the church to its former glory. In 1934, the church was re-consecrated after major restoration work that preserved its history and beauty for future generations.
PORTOVENERE (1925), EUGENIO MONTALE
The structure of San Pietro’s Church is a true architectural masterpiece, with its black and white striped facade typical of the Genoese style, and its interior divided into three naves with ogival cross vaults. The atmosphere inside is one of deep spirituality and suggestion, accentuated by the breathtaking landscape from the church, overlooking the crystal clear sea of the Gulf of La Spezia. The church, also mentioned in the works of the famous poet Eugenio Montale, is a landmark in Italian culture and literature. Montale himself, in his poem “La Prove,” describes the magic and spirituality that envelop this enchanted place, conveying to the reader a sense of intimacy and connection with origins: «Là fuoresce il tritone dai flutti che lambiscono le soglie d’un cristiano tempio, ed ogni ora prossima è antica. Ogni dubbiezza si conduce per mano come una fanciulletta amica. Là non è chi si guardi o stia di sé in ascolto. Quivi sei alle origini e decidere è stolto: ripartirai più tardi per assumere un volto.» Translation: "There fires the newt From the billows that lap The thresholds of a Christian temple, and every approaching hour is ancient. Every doubtfulness Is led by the hand Like a friendly maiden. There is no one there who looks at himself Or stand of themselves listening. There you are at the origin And to decide is foolish: You will depart later to assume a face." "Portovenere" (1925), Eugenio Montale
AN UNPARALLELED MAGICAL PLACE
One of the most evocative traditions related to San Pietro’s Church is the feast of the Madonna Bianca, which is celebrated every year on August 17. During this festival, the sides of the promontory are illuminated by hundreds of candles, creating a magical and evocative atmosphere that evokes a sense of sacredness and devotion. The procession that takes place along the streets of the ancient village, accompanied by songs and prayers, is a moment of deep communion between the local community and the visitors who join in the celebration. The Church of San Pietro, with its thousand-year history, striking architecture, and central role in the spiritual and cultural life of Portovenere, is an essential stop for anyone visiting this marvelous location in Liguria. Its timeless beauty and unique atmosphere continue to inspire artists, poets and travelers of every era, confirming it as one of the region's most precious treasures. Choose the “A-abbronzatissimi nelle isole” or the “Con te partirò al tramonto” tour and discover Portovenere together with the Polpara team. Book the “Dimmi quando quando quando” tour and ask the skippers to take you to San Pietro’s Church if you want to immerse yourself in this magical atmosphere alone, without any distractions.